Orchids From Indonesia Defeat Orchid Records "Smallest Orchid In The World" From Ecuador

Oberonia

Really Platystele sp from Ecuador is the smallest?
In late 2009 the then world orchid enlivened with international news about the discovery of the smallest-sized orchids in the world. Lou Jost, American researchers have discovered a mini orchids in Ecuador which was then claimed by the international media as the world's smallest orchid. Orchids of the genus Platystele has transverse size of 2 to 2.1 mm. If the size of 2 mm is claimed as the size of the smallest orchid in the world, then in fact Indonesia has orchids with a smaller size.

The mysterious mini orchids
Super mini orchids of the genus Oberonia sp has a transverse size of 1.1 to 1.5 mm are obtained directly from an exploration in the Mentawai islands in early 2010. Orchids of the genus Oberonia sp has bright orange flowers and inflorescence arranged in a series of hundreds of flowers arranged in a regular spiral pattern.

Until this article is raised, the identity to the species level is still unknown, this other than because of its miniature size which is quite difficult in the process of identification, also because the information in the genus Oberonia Malesiana still has not been recorded properly.

The genus is minimal attention
Literature and herbarium specimens required for the identification of reference must be excavated from herbaria in the UK and Leiden, given literature and herbarium records of orchids in Indonesia is still very limited herbaria all. The literature on the species of the genus Oberonia issue of the journal publications dominated the mid-1800s to early 1900.

Decades after that, hardly ever any related publication of this genus. Until finally in 1997 came the publication of the transfer of an orchid species from Nepal who formerly had published in 1825 under the name Stelis mucronata and now transferred to the genus into Oberonia, became Oberonia mucronata. While other significant publications of the discovery of a new species Oberonia ensifolia from Sumatra (Indonesia) by JBComber, a British taxonomist, in 2001.

For additional information, that the genus Oberonia generally does have flowers with miniature size, for the same reason orchids of this genus have less commercial value among orchid enthusiasts even though researchers. That is why there has been no research since the first world to successfully perform the revision of the genus Oberonia in Indonesia or even in the region Malesiana with success, given the number of species in this region is relatively abundant.

Nevertheless, from the standpoint of botanical orchid has a value of knowledge is priceless. Very not rule out going to find orchids with a smaller size of the wilderness of Indonesia, since there are many species Oberonia in Indonesia that has not been studied further.

Thus it can be clarified that for a while, the smallest orchid in the world record held by the orchids of Ecuador has been defeated by the orchid sp Oberonia of the Mentawai islands. Note however that I am not in a position to claim Oberonia this sp as the smallest orchid in the world, because this needs a more thorough scientific review of all species of the genus Oberonia. But at least while we can be proud because Indonesia has shifted positions orchids orchids from Ecuador who previously claimed as the smallest orchid in the world.

Source : anggrek.org

Smallest Orchid In The World Found In Ecuador

Platystele

Botanists who have just discovered a new flower in Ecuador can be forgiven for having missed it until now. 

The world's smallest orchid is just 2.1mm wide, with transparent petals that are just one cell thick. It comes from the Platystele genus, which is made up of mostly miniature plants.

American scientist Lou Jost found the tiny flower by accident among the roots of a larger plant that he had collected from the Cerro Candelaria reserve in the eastern Andes. He said: 'I saw that down among the roots was a tiny little plant that I realised was more interesting than the bigger orchid.

'Looking at the flower is often the best way to be able to identify which species of orchid you’re got hold of - and can tell you whether you’re looking at an unknown species or not.'

It is the 60th new orchid that Dr Jost has discovered in the past decade.

He works for Ecuador's EcoMinga Foundation, which created the reserve in partnership with the World Land Trust in Britain.

'It is an exciting feeling to find a new species,' he said.

'People think everything has been discovered but there's much more.'

More than 1,000 orchid species have been unearthed in the South American country in the last 100 years as new roads have opened up more remote regions.

Dr Jost's most exciting find was a group of 28 types of orchids from the teagueia genus in a mountainous area near Banos, Ecuador.

The group was previously thought to only have six species.

Source: dailymail.co.uk

Largest Orchid In The World

Here it is the heavyweight champion of the world of orchids. This orchid named Grammatophyllum speciosum or are often touted by the name of G. Papuanum which is believed as one of its variants. This plant is widespread from Sumatra, Borneo, Java, to Papua. Therefore, do not be surprised if many of its variants found in plant and floral forms are slightly different. In a mature clump, this plant can reach more than 1 ton of weight and length of flower panicles up to 3 meters with a diameter of about 1.5-2 cm panicle. That is why the flower panicle flowers capable of supporting tens of 7-10 cm in diameter. From shades of the flowers ... the local population is often dubbed as the tiger orchid ... but the term is often confused with relatives, Grammatophyllum scriptum which has a similar style. Therefore, this orchid is popular as well as orchid cane, because the figure of the plant stems that resemble tree trunks sugarcane. Despite the wide spreading of this orchid ... instead faced a serious threat from uncontrolled hunting and habitat destruction. The figure of a very large tree is easily seen by the hunters, even more striking when rates rise. Not to mention the natural breeding habitats by seed is very difficult to reliably because of the slow rate of growth from seed to reach the phase of mature plants ready to bloom. Perhaps it is this which underlies why the orchid has become one of the orchid species are protected.

As a lover of orchids, orchid surely this would be one of "most wanted" in the collection list. In order to hunt wild orchids in their habitat can be controlled, then steps through vegetative and generative culture must be empowered. Moreover, this orchid is known to be very easy to grow from cuttings bulb shoots her. At least, to cultivate them vegetatively or buy orchid seed cane of vegetative propagation (cuttings of shoots from bulb) may be an effort to preserve the natural orchid Indonesia.

Source: anggrek.org

How To Choose An Orchid Plant

There are several reasons people buy orchid because orchids have exotic flowers, attractive colors, fragrant (on a specific type). Orchids are widely used as gifts, birthdays, weddings, office decorations, home decor, collector of orchids. Orchid is also a growing requirement of plants differ from plants in general, have a more specific specifications such as the need for sunlight, temperature, wind and water, in order to obtain optimal growth of orchids, buy orchids for it right close to your residence. Why is that? Here are some tips before you buy orchids.

1. Why should a flower shop near the house? The possibility of orchids can more quickly adapt to new places or where you live because it has some similarities such as sunlight, temperature, wind, water and altitude. This effect on plant growth. This factor is often overlooked by buyers, especially orchids for beginners where they buy orchids from places far from their homes. So the orchids you buy does not fit with the environment in which your residence, then you buy orchid experience stress, decreased growth and orchids become worse off. Just be wasting your money in vain.

2. Of age purchasing mature plants ready for flowering
Mature plants more resistant to disease than young seedlings and may further reduce the risk of failure, especially if you are a beginner. You will spend a little more expensive, but you will more quickly get satisfaction than young seedlings.

3. Flowers
Pick flowers that have not bloomed all or some flower buds that have not bloomed. Thus you will enjoy the beauty of flowers from the flower buds to bloom fully.

4. Leaf
Healthy leaves are bright green leaves and fresh, and smooth. This is caused orchids get enough sunlight. leaves not yellow due to excess sunlight. no black spots on the leaves of the former disease and insect marks.

5. Pseudobulbs
Orchid has a pseudobulbs with a variety of sizes elip, lanceolate, compressed, and in particular orchids do not have a bulb but most importantly not mushy bulbs should be sturdy, solid and hard this indicates that the plant in a state of fat where the bulb function as a store of reserve food.

6. Root
No less importantly, root, root crops besides functioning glue on growth media in order not to shake as well as parts of the plant looking for supplies of food, water and nutrients. Choose orchid that has many roots indicate that the orchid is in good health, long tangled roots in the growing medium or potting on a silvery-white stems and roots of the root tip are green and slippery.

Orchid Species and Orchid Hybrids

In the market, we can find a variety of orchid that diverse. Lay people often think orchids are the natural results (taken from the forest) are cultivated. In fact, many of the orchids on the market are hybrid orchids, especially orchids cut.

Based on pollination, orchids divided into two, namely orchids species and orchids hybrids. Orchid species are orchids a still pure and untouched by hybridization. Meanwhile, orchid hybrids are from crosses between two different types of orchid species, among which has become a hybrid orchids and orchid species, and between the two hybrid orchid which is a hybrid before.

Orchids species often called nature orchids. even so, we must be careful because not all of nature orchid is an orchid species. In this case the natural pollination process itself often occurs between different species of orchids, especially with the help of insects. Therefore, it could grow orchid hybrid is the result of natural crossing without human assistance (natural hybrid). Thus, the mention of the natural orchid to orchid species can sometimes be wrong and misleading (misleading) because of lack of proper understanding.

Figure Orchid Species and Orchid Hybrids

The era of hybrid orchids started when World War II. At that time, the fans, lovers, collectors and orchids buyers can no longer bring orchid species for sale due to it in the wake of the war. The orchid collectors have difficulty in collecting orchids from countries affected by war. In addition to security that does not support, purchasing power and the economy also declined, and the regulations of the State which has many orchid species not to bring orchids species abroad. Therefore, the lover of orchids began cross breeding various species of orchid to obtain the types of the new orchid.

Recording of the hybrid orchid started to do, including the hybrid orchid biodata, biodata parent, and biodata they cross. The recording was conducted by internationally recognized institutions around the world, namely Holticultural Royal Society, in London, England. Currently estimated that there are more than 60 thousand orchid hybrids. The amount is smaller than the number of orchids that have actually existed as a result not all registered orchid hybrids registered and instituted it. Hybridization and is expected to continue to be made annually not less than 1,000 newly discovered species hybrids.

Effect of Sunlight Intensity Against Orchid Growth (ORCHIDACEAE)

INTRODUCTION

Orchid plants in scientific terms is called Orchidaceae and has approximately 700 genera that includes some 20,000 species and there is even a suspect to 35,000 species in Indonesia was reported there are approximately 5000 species of Van Steenis cit Sutarni MS (19).
Orchid liked by his fans because of the beautiful flower colors varied from yellow, green, blue, violet, purple, red peppers, copper brown, brick red, fragrant flowers and the flowers because they last longer, for the moon orchid (Phalaenopsis) between 1 up to 5 months (Ayub S.P, 1984)

Indonesia may, planting all kinds of orchids from around the world, ranging from tropical climates to sub-tropical climate (Ayub S.P, 1984).
To obtain optimal growth and diligent orchids blooming orchid plants then environmental conditions must be in optimum condition. Environmental factors that affect the growth of orchids by Moeso Suryowinota (1988) suggests that there are two factors: macro factors and micro factors.
Macro factors include:
1. sunshine
2. The air temperature
3. humidity
4. cloud
5. wind
6. O2 and CO2 air
7. air pollution

And micro factors (factors edatif) of growth media which include: nutrients, texture, structure of the media, the composition of the solution, and air composition of O2 and CO2 in particular media.
In this paper the author will suggest the macro factor is the influence of solar light intensity of sunlight on the growth of orchids (Orchidaceae).

ORCHID AND NEEDS THE SUNLIGHT
Orchid for absolute life will require sunlight. Needs of orchids on the intensity of sunlight varies depending on the type, there is a need sunlight that much, but there is also the type that requires only a little.

According to Simon & Schusters (19) suggests that the orchid Dendrobium requires full sunlight (full sun) was labiata Cattleya, Cymbidium sp., Cypridium calceolus, and Phalaenopsis sp need some sunlight in the shade (semishade).
According S.M. Latif (1960) suggested that for Arachnis orchid (orchid spiders = scorpion) can be grown in soil and in the heat of direct sunlight (full sun), to the high mountains of the origin of life is good enough solar heat gain. Dendrobium orchids require nearly all the heat and get hot in the daytime. Paphiopedilum orchids grow their natural habitat are protected under the tree. Phalaenopsis orchids like all kinds of light. And Vanda orchids are planted in a hot place.
According to Yos Sutiyono (19) suggests that the orchids Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda generally live a shaded place. Should terete Vanda orchids (Vanda pencils), Arachnis, Aranda, Renanthera, Renanthanda, and Aeridachnis require sunlight in greater numbers.
According to Sugeng Sri Lestari (1985) suggests that Phalaenopsis orchids require plenty of sun but also requires a rather moist places, especially it only requires a little light that is directly about it. Cattleya orchids like bright sunlight, but can not receive full sunlight, maximum 60% can receive sunlight on the plants mature. And Vanda Teres orchids are planted on the ground in places exposed to full sunlight and is also resistant to sunburn.
According Susiani Purbaningsih (1988) suggested that the orchid community pots (nursery) are not exposed to direct sunlight and needs ranging from 800-1500 fc
According Moeso Suryowinoto (1988) argued that the needs of species of orchids to the sun varies by type:
The intensity of light orchid species:
* Paphiopedilum 10 – 15 %
* Aerides 15 – 30 %
* Vanda 20 - 30 %
* Phalaenopsis 10 – 40 %
* Cattlleya 20 – 40 %
* Dendrobium 50 – 65 %
* Oncidium 60 - 75 %

And an outline of the criteria distinguished sunlight shines into four groups:
1. Strong beam, means full sun or 100% no barrier / shade, this is in the tropics.
2. Somewhat shady, sunlight intensity 50-100%. The presence of shade, if a curtain is still there between for the entry of sufficient light. Shade trees usually in the form of a tree having compound leaves are thin like: Flamboyant, sengon, petai, petai china, acid, pine and others.
3. Half shade, intensity of light that makes the state a half shade illustrate the condition of the incoming sunlight by 50%. Usually used curtain fabric, clear plastic paint sprayed white milk, bamboo blinds can also be used.
4. Completely calm, a state where direct sunlight is not accepted by the plant, but the beam is obtained from the diffraction / diffuse emission. here intensity
sunlight of magnitude less than 5%.

Based on the ecology of receiving light, plants are classified as follows:
1. Heliofit, ie plants that grow well in full sun if shining.
2. Skiofit, ie plants that grow well in lower light intensity.

Thus the group of orchids including skiofit heliofit well depending on the type orchid. Skiofit helioffit different in its ability to increase levels of chlorophyll at low light intensities. Skiofit possibility can not form chlorophyll rapidly, if the plants are exposed to full sunlight. Continuous light would damage chlorophyll (Daubenmire, 1959), so that would preclude fotosistesis (Bjorkman, 1968); Holmgren, 1968, sit Leopold & Kriedemann, 1975).
Generally, the light intensity was varied each day (Edmond et al, 1957). In addition the needs of different light intensities on each species (Weaver & Clements, 1966).

ORCHID GROWTH AND INTENSITY OF SUNLIGHT
Sunlight is the main source of energy for life, without the sun life would not exist (Pearse, 1939 sets of Wilsie, 1962).
For plant growth in addition to the influence of light was determined by its quality was determined intensity (Day Suseno, 1976).
Light intensity significantly influenced the nature of plant morphology. Plants that get sun light with high intensity causes the girth grows faster, more perfect composition of wooden vessels, internodia shorter, thicker leaves, but smaller in size compared with protected plants (Wilsie, 1962). Some of the effect of full sunlight (in excess) can cause wilting optimum needs, fotosistesis slow, respiration rate increases but it tends to enhance the durability of the plant.
High light intensity in the tropics is not fully used by plants (Curtis & Clark, 1950, Suseno, 1974). Solar light energy is used by plants in the process of photosynthesis ranged between 0.5 to 2.0% of the total available energy. So the result of photosynthesis is reduced when the light intensity of less than optimum limit required by plants, which depend on the type of plants (Leopold & Kriedemann, 1975) this also applies to other types of orchids.
Provision of shade on the plant both natural & artificial, would mean reducing the intensity of light received by plants, this will mempengruhi growth and crop yields (Daubenmire, 1962).
Plants that get less sunlight will have a short root, this is reinforced by the opinion of Shirley sit Wilsie (1962) that the full sunlight produces roots are longer and more branched. So also reinforced by Yos Sutiyoso (19) states that orchids enough sunlight will develop better rooting, number of roots will be a lot, big size and much branched. Root out early, so not far from the top of the plant species monopodial orchids such as Vanda, Arachnis.
When sunlight is less, because orchids are in a state too shady, then the process of assimilation will be reduced, so the carbohydrate as a result of the process is also less in number.
Carbohydrate will be transported through the filter vessel and the roots in respiration to produce energy. If the plant can produce less carbohydrate energy is then generated only slightly, while the energy necessary for roots to absorb water and nutrients following push into other plant parts. If the plant can produce less carbohydrate energy is then generated only slightly, while the energy necessary for roots to absorb water and nutrients following push into other plant parts.
In the shade of orchid plant cells are formed by large cells, but deflated, because the watery protoplasm in plant cells. Plants will be a long segment of a plant to catch the sun quickly, orchid plants look pale and weak. Plants will be easier to evaporate the water because the cuticle / wax coating on the leaf surface is very thin (Joshua Sutiyoso, 19)
According to Smit (1975) suggests that the influence of the most common morfogenik of growth in the dark (very low light intensity) is a growth segment (internodia) becomes very slow and the development of the leaves become depressed are weak and pale.
According to Jos Sutiyoso (19) that the light of the sun with his assimilation will lead to carbohydrate at one time reached the threshold value which is the stimulus for flowering orchid plants. With excessive shade, then the value of this threshold will not be achieved, so the interest was not generated. Many owners complain that the plants orchid plants have been maintained for years seriously, but do not produce flowers with satisfactorily.
Besides, the intensity of sunlight affects the quality of the flowers. The intensity of light is less bright as the color of the flowers are not flowers enough sunlight. Texture / thickness so that the interest rate is not how easily and quickly wilt fall (Yos Sutiyoso, 19).
According to Williams et al, (1976) suggested that the reduction of light from a plant that has optimum light, temperature and the moisture it will cause the reduction of root growth and plant shows symptoms etiolasi.
Daniel et al, (1979) explains that the process of photosynthesis, light is affected by the intensity, quality and duration of irradiation, but most of its intensity. This is supported by Soekkotjo (1977) explains that the light intensity effect on the enlargement and cell differentiation.
In connection with fotosisntesis rate, the higher light intensities (up) and resulted in increasingly fotosisntesis not increase again, although the intensity of the light continues to grow. This limit is called the saturation point of light or light saturation point (ligh saturation point). In light of this situation not as a source of energy as well as form, but as a destroyer (destructive photo).
High light intensity resulted in increased leaf temperature, as a result of the stomata closed, so in part chlorophyll to be broken and damaged (fotodestruktif).
Kramerdan According to Kozlowski (1979) explains that the rate of photosynthesis is caused by rising temperatures which resulted in the closure of leaf stomata and the destruction of chlorophyll, so that the concentration of chlorophyll is reduced.
While the intensity of light that gradually deteriorated to a certain extent the amount of O2 released by the process of photosynthesis equals the number of O2 required by the process of respiration. This limit is called the light compensation point (light compensation point).
Therefore each type of plant and also any type of orchid has a limit point of light compensation and light saturation point is not the same.
Orchid plants that receive the light above the optimal light intensity showed thicker leaves with a smaller amount of chlorophyll. This is in accordance with the opinion and Kozlowneski Kramer (1979) that the chlorophyll content of plants in the shade of larger per unit of dry weight compared with plants that are open, mampunyai leaves are thicker, so that a greater volume per unit area.
Orchid plants that received light intensity of the higher expected number of leaves the less, it is consistent with the results of research by M. Mochtar Effendy (1987) that the light intensity significantly influenced the number of leaves and seeds of Shorea leprosula Shreaacuminatissima. The higher the intensity of light that shows the smaller the number of leaves. The number of leaves of seedlings with maximum intensity is achieved in approximately 50% of full light. And showed that the number of leaf chlorophyll have a tendency to
decreased with increasing light intensity.
The number of leaf chlorophyll closely associated with fotosisntesis process, because it will directly affect the rate of fotosintesiss. The rate of photosynthesis showed an increase with increasing light intensity (Williams and Yoseph, 1976), but the rate of photosynthesis will decrease after passing the light saturation point.

CONCLUSION
From the above literature review it can be deduced as follows:

1. Each type of orchid requires a light intensity varying.
2. Optimal growth of orchids, one factor is given when the light intensity mahatari needs optimally.
3. The intensity of sunlight that exceeds the optimal needs of orchid plants, causing stunted growth, smaller leaf size, leaf chlorophyll will become damaged, then the leaves become yellowish = chlorosis, and increased leaf burning symptoms.
4. The intensity of sunlight that is lower than the optimal needs of orchids will show that leaves no thicker, greener leaves, roots is reduced, a longer segment (etiolasi symptom), diminished interest and color of the flowers are not bright.

REFERENCES
Daniel, T.W., J.W. Helm & F.S. Baker, 1979. Principles of silvicultur, 2 nd. Mc.Grow Hill Inc. New York.
Daubenmire, R.I., 1962. Plant and environment. A. texbook of plant ecology. Sec. ed. New York. John Willey and Sons Inc. London. pp 10 – 70.
Cutis, O.F., and D.G. Clark. 1950. An introduction to plant physiology Mc. Graw Hill Book Company Inc. New York Taronto London. pp. 214 – 248.
Kmamer, P.J. and T.T. Kozlowski, 1979. Psysoloogy of woody plant Academic Press. New York.
Latif, S.M. 1960. Bunga anggrek permata Belanda Indonesia. Sumur Bandung. pp 445.
Leopold, A.C. and P.E. Kriedemann, 1975. Plant growth and development The Dynamic of growth Sec. ed. pp. 75 – 105.
Madjo Indo, A.B.D., 1983. Kamus anggrek asing Indonesia. Ciawi Bogor pp. 223. Purbaningsih, S. 1988. pengeluaran bibit anggrek dari dalam botol. Lab. Budidaya jaringan Penelitian dan Pengembangan Anggrek Fak. Biologi. UGM. Yogyakarta. pp 9.
Simon & Schusters, 19. Complete guide to plant and flowers A. Fire side Book Published. Inc. New York. pp 522 (515-522).
Smith, H. & H.J. Weidelt. 1975. Phytochrom and photomorphogenesis and intreduction to the photocontrol of plant development MC. Graw Hill Book Co. London.
Sri Lestari, S. 1985. Mengenal dan bertanam anggrek. C.V. Aneka Ilmu. Semarang. pp. 124.
Soekotjo, W., 1975. Silvikultur khusus. Akademi Ilmu Kehutanan (AIK). Bandung.
Suryowinoto, S.M., 19. Sejarah Peranggrekan. Perhimpunan Anggrek Indonesia Cabang Yogyakarta dan Fakultas Biologi UGM. Yogyakarta. pp. 4.
Suryowinoto, M. 1988. Budidaya Tanaman Anggrek. Lab. Budidaya Jaringan. Penelitian dan Pengembangan Anggrek. Fakultas Biologi UGM. Yogyakarta. pp. 22.
Sutiyoso, Yos., 19. Pedoman Menanam Anggrek. P.D. Putra Kencana. Jakarta. Pp. 23.
Weaver, J.E. and F.E. Clements. 1966. Plant Ecologi. Sc. Ed. Tata Mc. Graw Hill Publishing Company Ltd. New Delhi. pp 380-385.
Williams, C.N. and K.T. Joseph. 1976. Climate, soil and crop production in the humid tropes. Oxford University Press. Kuala Lumpur. pp. 177.
Wilsie, C.P., 1962. Crop adaptation and distribution. Iowa state Univ. Diterjemahkan oleh Bintoro, M.H. dan Wiroatmodjo. 1978. Adaptasi dan distribusi tanaman pertanian. Faktor-faktor lingkungan. Dep. Agronomi Fakultas Pertanian. IPB. Bogor. pp. 234.

Arranging Orchid Flowers

Nothing is more elegant than orchids in a flower arrangement. They’ve always represented the pinnacle of good taste and sophistication. The key to using them for such purposes is to keep it simple and not to let the elegance of the orchids get overwhelmed by too many other elements.

A super-simple homemade orchid flower preservative
Here’s an easy recipe for making your cut orchids last longer. Combine one 12-ounce can of a lemon-flavored soda drink (like Sprite or 7-Up), an equal quantity of water, and 1 teaspoon of household bleach. The sugar in the soft drink serves as food for the flower, the citric acid lowers the pH (increases the acidity), and the bleach kills the bacteria in the water that can plug up the water-conducting network in the flower stem.

Understanding the three basic flower-design elements
When it comes to flower arranging, flowers and greens comes in three basic shapes — line, mass, and filler. All of these play a key part in the construction of an attractive flower arrangement:

1. Line flowers are tall and are used to give your arrangement height and width. Various branched orchids with buds (for example, oncidiums and cymbidiums) are used to create this effect.
2. Mass flowers give your bouquet weight or mass and are generally round or full-faced. They’re usually the focal point of color and interest in a bouquet. Examples are cattleyas and their relatives, as well as paphiopedilums and angraecums.
3. Filler flowers have stems with many little flowers and usually have fine textured foliage. Examples are miniature oncidiums.

Here are some tips on how to make simple, yet elegant, arrangements:

1. Line flowers, by themselves, can make a striking arrangement in a tall, cylindrical vase. Select a vase or container that is in proportion to the flowers. The vase should be about one-half to one-third the size of the total arrangement. For instance, 3-foot-tall spikes of cymbidiums or oncidiums need a vase 12 to 18 inches tall.
2. You can arrange mass flowers by themselves in a low, wide vase or container (see Figure 4-4).
3. A small arrangement of filler flowers by themselves can add a light, elegant touch to any room. Many of these filler flowers are well suited for drying.
4. Some flowers can be used as more than one element. For example, phalaenopsis sprays, especially the multifloral types, can be used as line elements, while large single flowers can be used as mass flowers.

Supporting the orchid flower stems
Having some method of supporting the stems of orchids in an arrangement, so you can arrange them to face the direction you prefer, is usually a good idea. Here are several methods and materials you can use:

1. For a clear vase, add marbles or rocks.
2. Crossing the top opening of the vase in a tic-tac-toe pattern of florist’s tape works well.
3. Frogs (pincushions on which the orchid stems are impaled) work well in shallower containers.
4. Florist foam is most popular with professional arrangers because it’s easy to use, effective, and retains water well so that the flowers last. It’s usually used in low containers.

Don’t cut the orchid flowers until they’re fully open. Otherwise, they may never have their proper shape or complete color.

Making your orchid arrangement last longer
To make your cut flowers last longer, follow these suggestions:

1. For cymbidiums, wait about ten days to two weeks after they’ve flowered before cutting; for cattleyas, wait several days. Cut the orchids only when they’ve fully opened.
2. Before you put the orchids into a vase, their stems should be recut at an angle under water. To keep them fresh, recut them every several days.
3. Condition the orchids first, before arranging them. Place their stems in warm (180°F/82°C), fresh water and let them sit somewhere cool (around 50°F/10°C) overnight.
4. Make sure all leaves that will be submerged under water in the vase are removed.
5. To use orchids’ short stems (like cattleyas) in taller arrangements, insert the flower stem into orchid tubes (waterholding test tubes, available at your local florist) and then tape the tubes to a wood stake for more height.
6. Add a commercial or homemade solution of floral preservative (see the nearby sidebar) to the warm water containing the flowers. Change this water and solution every three to four days.
7. Place the arrangement out of the direct rays of sunlight and in a cool room.
8. Double the life of your orchid flowers by placing the arrangement in the refrigerator at night or when you’re away from home.

Displaying Orchid Plants In Your Home

When you’re showing off your prized blooming plants in your home, here a few tips to keep in mind:

1. Be sure to protect your furniture by placing the orchid plant pots on waterproof pads, like cork platters.
2. If you place your plants on saucers, be sure they’re waterproof. Terra cotta platters are porous and moisture will seep through and can cause serious damage to unprotected wood furniture.
3. Place felt or rubber protectors under cachepots, platters, or saucers so your furniture won’t be scratched.
4. Place the blooming plants where they get bright light but not hot, late-afternoon light, so the flowers will last longer.
5. If the growing pot is encrusted or ugly, insert it into a larger ornamental pot or basket. Choose simple green, white, or neutral colors that don’t compete with the orchid flowers.
6. Place a layer of sheet moss or Spanish moss on the surface of the pot. This is a nice touch for covering up the sometimes unattractive potting material.
7. Display the orchid on a pedestal or higher elevation so you can view it at eye level (see Figure 4-3). Few orchids are as attractive when they’re viewed from above.
8. Think about how you will light your orchids to display them best. Many people are only able to view their orchids during the work week in the evening, so artificial lighting plays an important part in viewing them. Track lights work great. Use halogen or other bulbs that produce white light or as close to sunlight as possible so the orchid flowers will be rendered accurately. Regular incandescent light produces a yellow/red light that will make reds glow but that really dulls blues and greens.
9. Group orchids with other tropical foliage plants. These provide an attractive backdrop for the orchid flowers.

Helping Your Orchids Look Their Best

After growing the plants for months on the windowsill, under lights, or in a greenhouse, they can look a little rough around the edges. The leaves are probably dusty and/or blemished with chemical deposits, older leaves may be wilted or dead, and some of the tips of the leaves may be brown.

When the plants are in flower and you want to show them off to their best in your home or get them ready to exhibit in an orchid show, here are a few suggestions to keep in mind:

1. Clean their leaves. A simple way to polish the leaves is with milk. Dampen a paper towel with milk and rub off the blemishes. This will give a very attractive sheen that is harmless to the plant.
2. Carefully remove any dead or severely damaged leaves.
3. If you’re planning to bring your orchid to a show, be sure that you tape to the pot the name of your orchid plus your own name so that you don’t lose the plant. Also, make a list of what plants you’ve entered so you have a record.
4. Trim off the brown tips of leaves with very sharp scissors. The sharper they are, the cleaner the cut and the less leaftissue damage will result. When trimming, follow the natural shape of the leaf, as shown in Figure 4-2.

Staking and Grooming Your Blooming Orchids

Orchids deserve to look their best when they’re putting on their show. Proper staking and grooming can make a big difference in how orchid flowers appear.

Figuring out how to stake
Flowers and spikes of orchids can be heavy and, if they aren’t staked properly, they’ll open at an awkward and disconcerting angle. This can be a distraction, because the most interesting and
alluring perspective to view orchids is usually the head-on view.

Staking techniques vary somewhat with the type of orchid. The two major types are the spray orchids, like phalaenopsis and oncidiums, or those with single flowers or just a few on one spike,
like cattleyas and most paphiopedilums.

For spray-type orchids
Be sure to start this process before these orchids are actually in flower. This will ensure that the flowers are oriented correctly when they open. Here are the steps I recommend:

1. As soon as the flower spike is about 12 inches (30 cm) long, insert a vertical bamboo stake (you can get a green one, so it blends in better) close to where the spike originates at the base of the plant (see Figure 4-1).
2. As you insert the stake, twist it to work it around roots to minimize damage to them.
3. Attach the first tie on the lower part of the spike close to the first node (the bump in the flower stem). Use twist-ties or Velcro, not sharp string or wire, which could damage the stem.
4. Attach another tie a few inches higher on the flower spike.
5. Put additional ties every few inches as the flower spike grows.
6. Place the last tie a few inches below where the first flower buds are forming. This allows the spike to form a natural arch with the first flower open at the highest point and the others gracefully following suit right below that one.

Flower spikes always grow in the direction of the strongest light. After the flower spike reaches about 12 inches (30 cm) tall and the buds are starting to form, never change the plant’s orientation to the light source. If you do, the spike will try to reorient itself and you’ll end up with a twisted, distorted spike with flowers opening in all directions.

When the flowers are fully open, they’ll stay that way, so you can then move the plant anywhere you want.

For single- or few-flowered orchids
Staking these orchids is simpler. When the bud or buds start to swell on the flower spike, insert a vertical bamboo stake close to where the spike originates at the base of the plant.

Be sure to do this before the flower has opened so that the bud will orient itself to gravity. If the flower spike is at an angle, the flower will adjust itself to open perpendicular to the angle the flower stem is pointing. If you tie the spike up after it has opened, it will keep its original orientation and will look awkward.

In the last few years, orchid growers have discovered one of the best ways to attach upright flowering stems to bamboo or wood stakes: spring-operated baby hair clips! They’re available in all colors, are inexpensive, and frequently are formed in whimsical shapes of butterflies or dragonflies, which fit well with the orchid look. Plus, they work well!

Caring for Orchids in Their New Home

Bringing an orchid plant into its new home can be traumatic for both the plant and you! You have to get to know each other. Most orchids you buy will have come from a very high-light, high-humidity environment of a commercial greenhouse. You bring them into your home environment, which is usually less bright with lower humidity, so the plant has to make some adjustments. Doing this with the least amount of distress is your goal, and in this section, I help you get there.

In Chapter 5, I give you the details of routine orchid care, but here I want to give you some tips that will make the short-term transition easier for both of you.

If the plant is in bloom
Here are some tips that will make the flowers on your new orchid last longer:

1. Place the plant somewhere in your house that’s bright, but where it won’t get direct sunlight, except possibly in the morning. Too much harsh sunlight can bleach out the flowers.
2. Keep the plant on the cool side — not above about 75°F (about 24°C). Flowers stay fresher longer this way.
3. Be sure to keep the plant well watered. Even though the orchid plant stops growing much when it’s in bloom, theleaves and flowers still need water.
4. Don’t let any bees or flies in the room where your orchids are blooming. If the bees or flies pollinate them, the flowers will collapse afterward.
5. Don’t put the plant close to ripe fruit. Fruit gives off ethylene gas, which can cause flowers to collapse prematurely.
6. Keep your orchid plants away from strong fumes like paint thinners or other pollutants. These can cause the blossoms to fade.
7. Don’t spray the flowers with water or place the blooming plant in a room that is highly humid with no air movement. This can cause spotting on the flowers from fungal diseases.

If the plant is not in bloom
Before you add your new, not-yet-blooming orchid to your collection, follow these tips:

1. Look under the leaves and at the younger growth to make sure there are no bugs.
2. To be on the safe side, isolate this new plant from your collection for at least three weeks. This will allow time for hidden insect eggs to hatch out.
3. As a further precaution, spray the plant thoroughly with an insecticidal soap. Use a paper towel to wipe off the excess spray. This will not only kill any soft-bodied insects but will also clean the leaves.
4. Consider repotting the orchid into your own potting mix. That way you’ll be assured that the potting mix is fresh and you’ll know its watering requirements.

Humidifiers, Heaters, and Ventilation Equipment

Your home environment is designed to make you, not necessarily your plants, comfortable. Fortunately, many of your living requirements are the same as the living requirements for most of the orchids in this book. In some cases, though, you’ll need to modify your orchids’ growing space to better suit them.

Humidifiers
The importance of providing sufficient humidity for better health for both you and your orchids is detailed in Chapter 5. To humidify an entire room, there are at least three possible approaches, covered in the following sections.

Evaporative-pad humidifiers
With these units, fans blow across a moisture-laden pad that sits in a reservoir of water. Evaporative-pad humidifiers are my first choice for home humidification because

1. They’re reasonably priced and readily available.
2. They don’t spray the room with droplets of water that can carry mineral deposits and bacteria.
3. They circulate air at the same time.
4. They only increase the humidity to about 50 to 60 percent (most have an adjustable humidistat, which measures humidity). This is a level that is beneficial to plants, but not sufficient to cause moisture damage to the house.
5. They require no plumbing and very little maintenance just change the moisture pads one or two times a season.

Cool-mist humidifiers
Cool-mist humidifiers can be effective for small areas, but with constant use, they can cause deposits of minerals on leaves and be a bacteria carrier.

Greenhouse-type foggers or humidifiers
If you have a greenhouse or a very large growing area that really needs a lot of humidity, a greenhouse-type fogger or humidifier is for you. These units can be pricey. They’re plumbed into a constant water supply that is controlled by a float (much like a toilet bowl). The humidity level can be regulated by a separately purchased humidistat.

Ventilation
Adequate air circulation is very important in orchid culture. Fortunately, many convenient and inexpensive pieces of equipment do this job admirably. Here are some of the best choices:

1. Ceiling fans: These are readily available and do a super job of moving large volumes of air in a figure-8 pattern at a low velocity. Most of them have reversible motors, so they can either be set to pull the cooler air from the floor (usually the summer setting) or push hot air down from the ceiling (usually the winter setting).
2. Oscillating and standard fans: You can find these in all blade sizes, and most have variable speeds. All will do the job, but you’re better off getting one with a larger blade size and running it at low speed. This will move more air but not at as high a velocity, so the plants won’t become dehydrated by a strong air current. Also, for oscillating types, splurge on a better-grade model that has metal or heavy-duty gears; otherwise, they’ll strip in short order, and you’ll then have a stationary fan.
3. Muffin fans: These are very small, handy fans (3 to 6 inches/ 8 to 15 cm) that are used to cool electronic equipment like computers. They’re great for bringing a gentle, quiet breeze to a small corner of your growing area. You can find them at electronic or computer-supply stores or in catalogs.

For more information on the importance of ventilation and air movement, see Chapter 5.

Heating
If you’re like most people, you’ll rely on your home heating system to provide most of the heat for your orchids. You can supplement that with small electric heaters or water-resistant heating mats commonly used to start seeds. If you’re growing under lights, you can enclose your growing area in plastic film to help retain heat produced by the lights and ballasts.

Thermometers and hygrometers
I have to admit, and my wife will quickly concur, that I’m a nut about temperature and humidity monitoring. I’ve got remote sensors all over my home that tell me maximum and minimum temperature and humidity levels each day. As I explain in Chapter 5, temperature differentials are important to know about if you’re interested in getting your orchids to bloom. Thanks to modern digital thermometers and hygrometers that are simple to use and not expensive, you can keep track of temperature and humidity with little effort.

Watering Accessories

Mastering the art of watering is one of the critical keys to success in orchid culture (see Chapter 6). These accessories deliver water, and in some cases fertilizer, gently and effectively.

Water breakers
Water breakers are attached to the end of a hose to diffuse the water and prevent it from washing out the orchid potting material (see Figure 3-4). They deliver a large volume of water, but in a very gentle way — and they work really well.

You can find water breakers that deliver different volumes and water patterns such as mist, fine shower, jet, or flood. Some watering heads can be dialed to whichever of these forms you want —
very handy.

You’re usually better off choosing the water breaker that delivers the finest steam of water possible. This will be most useful for the broadest range of watering applications.

Water-flow regulators
Water-flow regulators are attached to the hose before the water breaker to regulate the volume of water. The simplest ones are manual on/off valves. I find the thumb or squeeze valves are easiest to use more precisely and determine the volume of water you want to deliver to your orchids (see Figure 3-5).

Hoses
Buy the best-quality hose you can find. The better ones will not kink and will last much longer.

If hoses tend to get in the way, consider the newer “coil” hoses. They take up much less space and can be attached to a sink spigot. Again, buy the best grade you can find — the cheaper ones tend to kink very easily.

Watering cans
Many of the sprinkling or watering cans on the market are close to worthless for using on orchids. They deliver too much water too fast and are awkward to use in tight indoor spaces. The best type to use, for most situations, is one that holds 1⁄2 to 1 gallon (2 to 4 liters), has a long spout (so you can reach orchids in the back row), and has a removable water breaker (sometimes called a rose) on the end of its spout that delivers a very fine stream of water (see Figure 3-6). The watering can may be made of metal or plastic, but the water breaker should be made of metal, preferably a nonrusting one, like copper.

Sprayers and misters
You can use sprayers and misters for misting the orchids to temporarily increase the humidity, to clean the leaves, or for applying pesticides. If you’re going to use any chemicals in them, the plastic sprayers are less prone to being affected by these corrosive materials
so they’re a better choice than metal ones.

One type of hand sprayer that I’ve found particularly effective for applying insecticides is a teat sprayer because its spray head points up instead of straight forward like standard sprayers. These are actually used to wash off cow udders (hence, the name), so they’re sold at farm-supply stores. But for orchid growers, they serve admirably to apply these chemicals to the undersides of leaves, where the bugs usually hang out (see Figure 3-7).

Fertilizer injectors
Commercial growers use a device called a fertilizer injector that “injects” into the water a small amount of water-soluble fertilizer each time the plant is watered. In this way, the orchids are constantly fed a very diluted amount of fertilizer instead of larger amounts every two weeks or so, as is frequently done. These units tend to be on the expensive side and may be a luxury item, unless you have quite a large number of orchids to fertilize.

A much cheaper way around this is to use a simple siphon mixer. Several brands are on the market, but they all work basically the same. You attach the siphon mixer to the spigot before the hose. A flexible hollow rubber tube is inserted into a concentrated solution of fertilizer. When the spigot is turned, a suction action created by the water flowing through the hose draws this concentrate through the tubing so it flows into the water in the hose and is diluted while
it’s being applied to the orchid plants.

To get the most benefit from a siphon mixer, here are a few tips:

1. Use a completely soluble fertilizer so it won’t plug up the unit.
2. Use a water breaker that functions with a low volume of water. The water flow coming out the end of the hose will be significantly reduced when the siphon mixer is attached.
3. Be sure the unit you have also has a backflow preventer. That way, when you turn off the water breaker, but not the spigot, the back pressure won’t cause the concentrated fertilizer solution to flush back into your house water or back into your fertilizer concentrate.
4. To be on the safe side, use the siphon mixer only for applying fertilizers, not pesticides.
5. Be careful to dilute the fertilizer to the correct concentration. These usually inject the fertilizer on a 1:16 fertilizer-to-water ratio, but always read the directions that come with the unit.

Deionization and reverse osmosis units
Deionization and reverse osmosis units are used to purify your well or tap water to reduce or eliminate concentrations of salts that can be harmful to some particularly sensitive orchids. The
units aren’t cheap and can be cumbersome and bothersome to use. So, before you consider getting one, make sure you need it.

Here are some things to consider before you buy:

1. If your orchids and other houseplants have been growing, then don’t worry about using a deionization or reverse osmosis unit. Most households can get by with the water they have.
2. If you’ve had water problems or just want to be on the safe side, check with your public water provider to see what the average total dissolved solids (TDS) is in your water. If you have your own well, you’ll need to have a test done at a private water lab
   

• If you have 60 parts per million (ppm) or less of TDS and less than 5 ppm of sodium,
you’re home free. Your water is of good quality for orchids.
• If your water tests at 60 to 120 ppm and you have up to 10 ppm of sodium, all except the
most sensitive orchids should be okay, but you’re on the edge with water quality.
• If you have readings higher than 120 ppm for TDS or 10 ppm of sodium, you may have
more orchid-growing success if you use better-quality water. To do this, you could collect
rainwater (you can buy special rain barrels for this purpose that hook up to your
downspout), or consider buying a reverse osmosis or deionization unit.

If you’re on the higher end of the TDS level, be particularly careful not to overfertilize.

Orchid Potting Tools

The tools and supplies in this section make the potting process easier. For specific potting techniques and guidelines.

Potting tools
Potting is a combination of force and finesse. These tools make the process easier and more effective.

Hammers
Regular steel-clawed hammers can be useful for breaking clay pots containing overgrown plants that can’t be removed any other way. But for most purposes, a rubber mallet comes in more handy. It’s used frequently to pound in stakes or clamps that hold newly transplanted or divided orchids in their pots.

Dibbles and planting sticks
Getting the potting material to settle in around the roots of the orchids is important because large air spaces can cause the orchid roots to dry out or not form properly. Dibbles and planting sticks are used to push the potting material into these air spaces.

Torches for sterilizing tools
Dirty cutting and potting tools can spread diseases. Preventing disease by sterilizing any tools that come in direct contact with orchid root and leaf tissue is always a good idea. You can use chemical solutions to do this (for instance, a 1:10 ratio of household bleach to water), but chemicals are very corrosive and some are toxic. A very simple way to sterilize metal tools is to flame them with a
propane or butane torch. Both are available in small handheld sizes.

Potting supplies
The orchid tag that comes with the orchid or the one you make yourself contains very important information that you want to protect. Knowing the correct name of the orchid is crucial information when you’re looking up cultural information. Also, many times the tag includes the orchid’s parents’ names, which can also provide helpful cultural clues. If you want to enter your orchid in a show, it may be disqualified without proper labeling.





So the important message is: Keep a legible label in the pots of all your orchids. Maintaining a separate list of your orchids is also a good idea. To make it easier, assign numbers to each of your plants and place this number on the label. This serves as a safety net in case the label is damaged or lost.

Labels
Many types of labels are available, in all different sizes and colors. Which size or color you choose is a personal choice — the material they’re made of is a more important consideration.


Label markers
Using the right marker can mean the difference between being able to read the name of the orchid three years after you bought it and not. Table 3-2 lists some advantages and disadvantages of each type.

Clips and stakes
Numerous types of stakes and clamps are used to hold the orchid in its pot when it has been transplanted and its roots are inadequate, by themselves, to anchor the plant. Figure 3-2 shows some samples of metal stakes. Bamboo stakes are also available.

Knowing What to Look for in an Orchid

After you consider your environment, you’re ready to go shopping. You have an idea of which types of orchids will work best where you’ll be growing them, and now you just need to look at a few things such as the plant’s health and age. I fill you in on these factors in the following sections.

Choosing a healthy plant
Picking out a healthy orchid plant is essential. Even in the best of circumstances, the orchid that you bring home will have to adapt to changes in its environment. A strong, robust plant has a much better chance of surviving this ordeal than a weak plant does.

Here’s a checklist of things to look for when you select an orchid:

1. Look carefully at the leaves. They should be stiff, not shriveled or dehydrated. They should also have a healthy green color. Brown or black spots on leaves could mean disease, or they could be harmless; if you find spots, ask the grower about them.
2. Look for any signs of insects. Most insects hang out on the new young growth, on the flower buds of the plant, or on the undersides of the leaves. Also check under the pot for snails or slugs.
3. Examine the exposed roots on top of the potting material. The roots should be firm and light colored, not black, soft, and mushy.
4. Watch out for plants infested with oxalis (which looks like clover). Oxalis is a pesky weed that is difficult to get rid of after it’s established. It will not directly harm the orchids, but it can harbor insects and is a cosmetic distraction.

Make sure the plants are labeled. Labels will be important to you later if you want to look up information on growing your particular type of orchid.

Be sure to ask the grower about the temperature, light, and humidity requirements of the orchid you’re considering. Check out its ultimate size. Then match this information with what you know about your orchid growing area.

Deciding between a blooming plant and a young plant
When you buy a mature, blooming plant, you get to see exactly what the flower of this orchid is like. Because many orchid flowers can last quite a while, you’ll be able to enjoy this orchid for weeks after you bring it home. The biggest disadvantage of blooming plants is that they’re usually the most expensive, because they’re in the highest demand.

Younger plants — ones that are months or even years away from blooming — are much less expensive than their mature counterparts. The joy in choosing these plants is anticipating when they’ll bloom and what they may look like.

If you’re a beginner, I recommend that you buy mature plants with buds or flowers. Waiting for immature plants to bloom is something you may enjoy after you have a small collection of the mature ones.

Choosing seed-grown orchids or orchid clones
Very few orchids sold today have been collected from the wild. Instead, they’ve been grown from seed. The flower color, flower size, and growth habits of these seed-grown plants vary. Seed grown plants are generally very reasonably priced.

Cloned orchids, also referred to as meristemmed or mericloned orchids, are orchids that have been multiplied from single cells, usually from a plant of very high quality, in a flask, which is a type of laboratory bottle. The result is that they’re all identical.

The advantage of purchasing a cloned orchid is that you can depend on the orchid that you buy being exactly like its parent, which is frequently an award winner. In general, these clones are a bit more expensive than the others, but they’re usually worth it.
Caring for Your New Orchid
Adding new orchids to your plant collection is exciting, but this is also a time for caution. Even though you may have been very careful in the selection process, your orchid still may be harboring insect eggs that may hatch, or it may have a disease problem that you didn’t notice before.

So, to be on the safe side, keep your new plant isolated from all your other plants for at least two to three weeks — enough time to see if any insects appear or a disease shows up. If you need to treat your new plant, doing so will be easier when it’s separated from your other plants.

Considering Your Environment

When you go to shop for orchids, you can very easily get carried away! The excitement of the moment can completely win over rational plant selection. Few beginning orchid growers take the time to consider their environment before they buy. Unfortunately, if you do this, you may end up bringing home a gorgeous orchid that’s completely wrong for you.

If possible, always choose an orchid that comes close to fitting your growing area. Even I give you pointers on how to modify your growing area to make it more suitable for orchid growth, you can only modify your environment so much. For instance, an orchid that is commonly found growing in full sun in Hawaii probably won’t take well to a windowsill during the winter in low-light areas like New England. And an orchid from the cloud forest that is drenched with almost constant rainfall and very high humidity probably won’t be happy and bloom in the hot dry air of Arizona.

In the following sections, I help you assess your environment so you can be confident that you’ll pick out a stunning orchid that is right for you and that will thrive where you live.

Taking temperature readings
Before you bring home an orchid, you need to consider the average daytime and night time temperatures in summer and winter where you live.

To determine high and low temperatures indoors get a maximum/minimum thermometer that records this information and place it in your growing area.

For an idea of what your minimum temperatures are outdoors where you live, check out the USDA hardiness map at www.usna.usda. gov If you’re a weather nut like I am, you can use a recording weather station that reads the maximum and minimum temperature, humidity, wind speed, rainfall, and barometric pressure every hour and stores this information so it can be charted. Mine has remote sensors and a wireless connection to my computer

A broad selection of temperature and weather recording instruments are available from the orchid-supplies dealers listed in the appendix.

When you’ve determined the average summer and winter temperatures in your area, turn to Table 2-1, which lists some of the most common types of orchids by temperature requirements. Notice that some orchids are adaptable enough to fit into more than one temperature range.

When orchid publications refer to temperature preferences, they always mean the evening temperature. The daytime temperature is usually about 15°F (9.5°C) higher than the evening temperature.



Measuring your light intensity
Just as important as temperature is the amount of light your orchid will get. Orchids that thrive in high light need several hours of direct sunlight (preferably in the morning to early afternoon), while those that thrive in lower light will perform with less direct and more diffused light in a windowsill or under lights.

Will you be growing the plants under artificial lights? Most light setups consist of multiple florescent lamps and can provide adequate illumination for medium- to lower-light orchids. High-intensitydischarge lamps are capable of much more light output but can be expensive to operate and generate quite a bit of heat.

How bright is your light? Figure 2-1 illustrates a simple yet effective and reasonably accurate method for determining the intensity of your light.

After you determine your light levels, turn to the following sections, which list orchids by the amount of light they need. Remember to keep in mind temperature (see the preceding section).

Bright light
The following orchids require a bright greenhouse, a very bright south-facing window, or very-high-output (VHO) fluorescent lamps (which require specialized ballasts to operate) or metal halide lamps:

1. Angraecum
2. Some varieties of Cymbidium
3. Some varieties of Dendrobium
4. Vanda

Medium light
The following orchids need a shaded greenhouse, an east-facing window, or a our-tube 40-watt florescent light fixture:

1. Amesiella
2. Ascocenda
3. Ascocentrum
4. Ascofinetia
5. Brassavola
6. Brassia
7. Cattleya and hybrids
8. Some varieties of Cymbidium
9. Some varieties of Dendrobium
10. Epidendrum
11. Laelia
12. Leptotes
13. Masdevallia
14. Miltonia
15. Miltoniopsis
16. Neofinetia
17. Neostylis
18. Odontoglossum
19. Oncidium
20. Paphiopedilum (strap-leaf multiflorals)
21. Phragmipedium
22. Rhynchostylis
23. Zygopetalum

Low light
The following orchids do well with a low level of light, easily attainable with two 40-watt florescent lamps or on an east-facing windowsill:

1. Paphiopedilum (not including strap-leaf multiflorals)
2. Phalaenopsis
3. All orchid seedlings

Other questions to ask yourself
In addition to considering temperature and light, you want to ask yourself the following questions:

1. Does the growing area have moist (humid) air, or is the air very dry? If it is already humid (50 percent or greater), it’s perfect. If not, your orchids will be happier with moister air.
2. How much space do you have to grow orchids? If you have plenty of head room, you can grow some of the taller orchids, like cane dendrobiums and full-size cattleyas. If space is at a premium, search out very compact or miniature growers.
3. When do you want your orchids to bloom? Spring, summer, fall, or winter? In the evening or during the day? Armed with this information, you can pick those orchids that will be in bloom in the season and time of day of your choice.
4. Do you have air circulation in the growing area? Most homes have adequate air circulation, but if your orchids are going to be located in the basement or some other spot where the air is stagnant, you’ll want to consider a fan of some type to provide them with fresh air.

When you’re armed with this information, you’ll be better prepared to choose an orchid that will thrive.

Growing Orchids Easy As One, Two, Three

To be successful in growing orchids, just follow these suggestions:

1. Know the environment you have to offer your orchids and match this with the orchids that fit.
2. If necessary, modify your growing area to help your orchids perform to their best.

Beyond choosing the right orchid for your environment, you have to pay attention to the time of the year to know what your orchid needs. In the following sections, I give you a rundown of the year, month by month. Note: You can’t be too exact with the timing of this care schedule, because the United States is a vast country with climates from the cold north country to semitropics.

January
This is a period of cold, short days and low light, so orchids don’t grow much in such times. Fortunately, many moth orchids, slipper orchids, and some other cattleyas and their relatives will be budding up getting ready to show off their splendiferous blooms very soon.

1. For orchids such as some of the dendrobiums, cattleya species, and deciduous orchids, like the catasetums, this is a time of rest, so you’ll want to reduce your watering.
2. Keep the humidity high with good air movement.
3. If you are using well water, warm it up to room temperature before using it on your orchid plants. Ice-cold water can cause forming buds to drop and may stunt new growth.
4. Don’t put your orchids too close to the windowpanes or the leaves could be damaged by the cold.
5. Apply very little fertilizer. The orchids won’t need it.

February
This is another dark month, but the days will be getting longer and brighter, which should cause an increase in growth.

1. Toward the end of this month, increased light may mean you have to be careful with your orchids that require less light, like the slippers and moth orchids, so they don’t get burned.
2. More of your orchids will be showing buds and some, especially some of the moth orchids and some of the oncidiums, should be blooming.
3. Don’t overcrowd your plants — make sure they receive as much light as possible.
4. Provide good air circulation to prevent disease problems.
5. Stake your cymbidiums, which should be spiking now.
6. Don’t forget to keep your miltonias and miltoniopsis damp.
7. If you’re growing under lights, take note of when you last changed your bulbs. Fluorescent lamps can lose up to 40 percent of their light output after several months of use. Because new growth is starting on orchids, this is a good time to change the lamps so the plants will receive the most light possible.
8. Apply very little fertilizer during this month.

March
Finally, signs of spring with longer and brighter days.

1. Be careful that the increased light doesn’t heat up too much in your greenhouse or windowsill. Apply shading if necessary.
2. The increased light and warmth of this month will mean an acceleration of growth. Sprouting new roots should be more evident.
3. This is the beginning of the show for many orchids. Many cattleyas, moth orchids, slipper orchids, and oncidiums will be starting to bloom.
4. As the days get brighter and warmer, you can resume your regular fertilizing schedule.
5. This month and next are prime times to check out orchid shows in your area.

April
In April, many orchids will be in glorious flower.

1. You’ll probably have to increase the frequency of your watering because of the new plant growth.
2. As soon as you see new roots emerging in cattleyas, this is the time to repot. Do it before the roots grow a few inches (5 cm) long.
3. Many other orchids showing new growth can also be repotted at this time.
4. Be on the lookout for bugs. The warmer temperatures cause them to hatch out.
5. Dormant orchids should be showing new growth now so you can resume your regular watering schedule.
6. If you didn’t apply shading on your greenhouse last month, it may be needed now.
7. A gauze curtain may be needed to soften the light for orchids growing in a south window.
8. Check out orchid shows in your area.

May
Growth will continue at full speed this month. This is another prime month for orchid flowering.

1. More frequent watering and fertilizing will be called for.
2. If you’re in a northern climate, move some plants to a shaded, protected spot outdoors by the end of this month, but be careful not to do this too quickly. Orchids that prefer it warm, like moth orchids, don’t appreciate being too chilled at night, not below around 65°F (18°C).
3. Increase your ventilation to remove excess hot air and prevent fungal disease spotting on the flowers.
4. This is usually an opportune time to repot most of your slipper orchids because they should be in active growth now. Also, repot moth orchids and their vandaceous relatives. Attend to this right after they’ve flowered.
5. Continue your fertilizing program to strengthen new growth.

June, July, and August
Temperatures are starting to heat up now. Some orchids, like a few of the summer blooming hybrid cattleyas, oncidiums, and slipper orchids, will be in flower.

1. Be sure your windowsill or greenhouse doesn’t get too hot. Consider moving the orchids you have in the south window to the east window, where they’ll have reduced light and heat.
2. For orchids growing under lights, make sure your growing area gets plenty of ventilation, because it could be getting very warm now under the lights. If you have trouble keeping the temperatures low enough, consider summering your orchids outside
3. in a shaded and protected spot. They’ll enjoy the vacation.
4. This is also a prime time for insect problems. If it gets hot and dry, be on the lookout for mites. If it’s wet, slugs and snails will be a plague. Aphids and scale can show up anytime. If you need to spray, do it in the morning when it is cool and be sure the orchids are well watered before you spray.
5. The orchids should now be responding to your earlier repotting efforts with new root growth.
6. Repot miltonias. Remember: They like to be pot-bound, so don’t put them in too large of a pot.

September
Cool evenings and shorter days are signs of the change of season. Many of the hybrid vandas will be at their blooming peak this month. Buds will be showing up for the fall-blooming cattleyas, oncidiums, dendrobiums, angraecums, and moth orchids and slipper orchids.

1. If you’re in a cold climate, this is the month to bring indoors any plants that have been summering outside. Before doing this, check them closely for pests. If spraying is called for, doing so is much easier while the plants are outdoors.
2. These cooler nights are very beneficial for setting flower buds and spikes.
3. Start cutting back on the frequency of watering deciduous orchids like catasetums (which will have yellowing foliage at this time of year).
4. This is the time to remove shade on the greenhouse in most parts of the country.
5. Move orchids that require a lot of light from the east window back to the southern exposure.

October
Some cattleya species and their relatives and hybrids will be in bloom now. So will some moth orchid species and hybrids and oncidiums.

1. As days continue to shorten and the angle of light gets lower in the sky, position the orchids in your windowsill and greenhouse so that they capture the most light.
2. For greenhouses and windowsills, be sure your glass or glazing surface is clean. This can make a real difference in light transmission.
3. Growth will start to slow on many orchids from lower temperatures and light, so reduce watering and fertilizing accordingly.
4. Get ready for winter. Insulate your greenhouse. Get a standby emergency propane heater.

November and December
Flowering spikes will be showing up on some moth orchids, slippers, and oncidiums. Some of the nobile-type dendrobiums will be starting to show buds. Low light, short days, and cold temperatures bring most orchid growth to a stop or at least a crawl. You’ll see more growth on plants grown under lights than in a greenhouse or on a windowsill because of the additional light that can be provided.

1. For cold parts of the country, November is the last month to safely purchase mail-order plants before it gets so cold that there will be a higher risk chance for freeze damage in transit. This a great time to visit orchid nurseries to pick out holiday presents for your orchid growing friends (or yourself!).
2. Put orchids that require more light, like vandas, in a bright window, close to the lights, or high in the greenhouse to expose them to as much light as possible.
3. Water in the early part of the day to ensure that there is no standing moisture on the leaves. In cold, damp weather, especially, such moisture can cause disease outbreaks.