Pertumbuhan Anggrek Dendrobium sp Akibat Pemberian Vitamin B1 Dan Pupuk Majemuk Cair

Penelitian ini merupakan kajian percobaan untuk mengetahui pertumbuhan tanaman anggrek Dendrobium (Dendrobium sp.) akibat pemberian Vitamin B1 dan pupuk majemuk cair.

Hipotesis dalam penelitian ini adalah:
1. Diduga terdapat interaksi antara Vitamin B1 dan macam pupuk majemuk cair terhadap pertumbuhan tanaman anggrek Dendrobium (Dendrobium sp.).
2. Diduga terdapat pengaruh perlakuan Vitamin B1 terhadap pertumbuhan tanaman anggrek Dendrobium (Dendrobium sp.).
3. Diduga terdapat pengaruh perlakuan macam pupuk majemuk cair terhadap pertumbuhan tanaman anggrek Dendrobium (Dendrobium sp).

Penelitian ini dilakukan pada bulan Januari sampai dengan April 2002, yang bertempat di Screen House pusat pengembangan Bioteknologi pertanian UMM, dengan ketinggian tempat 500-550 mdpl.

Percobaan dilakukan dengan menggunakan Rancangan Acak Kelompok (RAK) Faktorial dengan 2 faktor yang meliputi: Faktor l: Vitamin B1 (K) yang terdiri atas 4 level: K0 (0 ppm Vit.B1/ tanpa Vit.B1), K1 (60 ppm Vit.B1), K2 (120 ppm Vit.B1), K3 (180 Vit.B1). Faktor ll: macam pupuk majemuk cair (P): P1(Mamigro dengan konsentrasi 2 ml/l), P2 (Grow Team-M dengan konsentrasi 2 ml/l). Masing-masing kombinasi perlakuan diulang 3 kali dan tiap perlakuan 5 pot, sehingga didapatkan 120 pot percobaan.

Pengamatan dilakukan 2 minggu setelah tanam (mst), dengan selang waktu 10 hari. Parameter pengamatan meliputi Panjang tanaman (cm), jumlah daun (helai), luas daun (cm2), panjang akar (cm), jumlah akar, berat basah (gram), dan berat kering (gram) tanaman.

Hasil pengamatan menunjukkan, bahwa terjadi interaksi antara perlakuan Vitamin B1 dengan pupuk majemuk cair ter0hadap panjang tanaman, jumlah daun, luas daun, dan berat basah tanaman. Kombinasi perlakuan K0P1 (0 ppm Vit.B1 Mamigro), K0P2 (0 ppm Vit.B1 Grow Team-M), K1P1 (60 ppm Vit.B1 Mamigro), K1P2 (60 ppm Vit.B1 Grow Team-M), K2P1 (120 ppm Vit.B1 Mamigro), memberikan pengaruh yang lebih baik terhadap panjang tanaman dan luas daun, untuk pengamatan jumlah daun perlakuan K0P1 (0 ppm Vit.B1 Mamigro), K0P2 (0 ppm Vit.B1 Grow Team-M), K1P1 (60 ppm Vit.B1 Mamigro), K2P1 (120 ppm Vit.B1 Mamigro) dan K2P2 (120 ppm Vit.B1 Grow Team-M) memberikan pengaruh yang lebih baik, sedangkan pada parameter pengamatan berat basah tanaman perlakuan yang terbaik adalah K0P2 (0 ppm Vit.B1 Grow Team-M) dan K1P1 (60 ppm Vit.B1 Mamigro).

Penggunaan Vitamin B1 yang dikombinasikan dengan pupuk majemuk cair Mamigro memberikan pengaruh yang lebih baik terhadap panjang tanaman, jumlah daun, luas daun dan berat basah tanaman jika dibandingkan dengan pupuk majemuk cair Grow Team-M. Penggunaan Vitamin B1 di atas 120 ppm memberikan pengaruh yang tidak nyata terhadap semua parameter pengamatan.

Dendrobium Orchid

Dendrobium

The genus Dendrobium is prolific and diverse, comprising some one hundred species, which vary greatly in size and shape. A single species has been found to adjust itself to entirely different places. Members of the genus grow on trees, in the ground, and on bare rocks, through great extremes of temperature and elevation. Some have been found as high as 1500 to 2000 feet in Burma at 1200F. The Dendrobium plant is unusual in appearance, being sym-podial, epiphytic, and bulbless, but possessed of heavy cane-like stems, which also produce the papery-green leaves. Especially in the deciduous types these canes store sufficient moisture and food to tide the plant over periods of extreme drought.

The genus is divided into deciduous and evergreen, which again divides into warm- and cool-growing plants. All evergreen Dendrobes (the name affectionately given the genus by orchidists) are handsome plants with their leafy, graceful foliage.

They have cane-like stems, taking the place of pseudobulbs, and bear the flowers in erect panicles (clusters, as of grapes), singly at the nodes, or in drooping racemes (stems with flowers attached at intervals). Evergreen Dendrobiums may be accommodated in the warm house.

Deciduous Dendrobiums are peculiar-looking plants, becoming dry and shriveled bamboo-like canes each year after the leaves drop off. Amazingly, and lovelier by contrast, the flowers bud and bloom from the nodes (joints) of these dry canes.

Deciduous Dendrobes bloom on the old wood, and evergreen Dendrobes on the new growth. They may be accommodated in the warm house and removed to a cooler spot while resting.

Dendrobium, of sympodial growth, will put forth little plant-lets, complete with bulb and roots, at the slightest provocation. These plantlets develop from the cane-like flower stems. If the beginner keeps his Dendrobiums, especially the deciduous type, too warm and moist during the dormant season they will waste their strength in plantlets and fail to bloom.

Many commercial growers pick the entire cane on flowering and, after cutting off the blooms, lay the canes on damp, warm sand or gravel to allow plantlets to develop from the dormant eyes. Dendrobiums are easily divided or grown from seed.

Dendrobium in many species lacks pseudobulbs, but even the long cane-like flower stems, along which the leaves grow in pairs, are capable of storing food and moisture.

Evergreen dendrobium orchid care will require a moderate amount of water at the roots at all times, but the deciduous Dendrobiums must be allowed to dry out thoroughly during dormancy, at which time they resemble dry bamboo canes.

They need cooler conditions during dormancy. When the new growth is made and the joints of the cane begin to swell, indicating initiation of flower growth, they must be given large amounts of water and moved to a warmer spot.

It will be helpful to the grower and dendrobium orchid care to have some method of marking plants after watering so that she will not water them again too soon. Segregating plants of one kind is not very satisfactory, since orchids are individuals and one will dry out sooner than another.

Marbles or colored stakes in the pot may answer the purpose. But no mechanical system is infallible and any system must be supplemented by close observation. Signs of need for watering are easily distinguishable.

The experienced grower 'hefts' or weighs the pot in his hand: if light, watering is indicated. The dry pot leaves no ring on the bench. The appearance of the potting material is an indication, but not always an accurate one.

The amateur will soon learn to recognize signs of well-being or need in his plants. Jewel-tipped roots and fat, rosy growths are indications of health. Root growth is usually, though not always, apparent, and pots indicating healthy roots can be watered more frequently than those where root growth is doubtful. The latter should be treated to plentiful overhead spray.

This brings us to consideration of the importance of the overhead spray and dendrobium orchid care. Orchids appreciate diffused water as they do diffused light. A fine spray makes a hot, dry day bearable for all the plants.

A daily spray is routine except for dark, cold days in winter; at the height of summer two or more sprays a day will be gratefully re-ceived.

Daily light spraying over the potting material is prescribed for tiny seedlings, backbulbs without roots, sick plants, and newly potted plants. Healthy roots attest the value of this treatment.

Some growers pot with damp material and allow the newly potted plants to go without pot watering until roots show. Light spray over the top of the potting material supplies enough moisture to prevent shriveling.

Damping is the simplest of the watering operations. Its virtue is enhanced because it is hard to do damage with this method. It consists of watering down the walls, floors, paths, and benches between the pots. In most climates this should be almost a daily procedure, omitted only when the house is too cold or the outside air too damp.

But there is one caution that should be heeded. It is popularly believed that orchids grow in steamy jungles. This is a misapprehension. What takes place in the jungle is rapid evaporation. Steam is injurious to orchids, and when the house is being damped down, care should be taken not to play the water on hot pipes.

Finally, it is imperative that the plants have water with an acidity reading of approximately 4.5 to 5 pH.1 Where the local water supply is very alkaline, some method of putting it on the acid side must be arranged. It is advisable to have the water supply analyzed and a remedy for deficiency suggested by a local chemist.

Some growers collect rain for watering, but if this is done they should be sure that the roof has not been sprayed with any injurious paint or stain. Other growers dip watering cans into vats containing water whose pH has been altered by the addition of acid. Hydrochloric acid is most frequently used, but resultant acidity should be checked by some sort of acid meter. It is wisest to consult a chemist about exact methods.

Dendrobiums need to be repotted immediately after flowering since they start new growth almost at once. Osmunda agrees with them, although the addition of sphagnum is often helpful. The deciduous canes may be cut from D. nobile and D. superhum and laid on the gravel under the benches.

They will break at the eyes and form new plantlets. Dendrobiums may be accommodated in a variety of containers, but, since they thrive in confinement, the receptacle should be as small as possible. Rafts or baskets are suitable for the drooping types.

Drooping canes should be allowed to follow their inclination unless room is scarce, in which case they may be tied up. Other types will do well in pots with Osmunda as medium. See Dendrobium care

Dendrobium Orchid Care

Dendrobium

Dendrobiums Orchid are among the most commonly encountered orchids in the retail trade. Like most other cultivated orchids, dendrobiums are epiphytes, or air plants. They have well developed water storage organs (pseudobulbs), often called “canes” for their upright, leafy appearance. They should be potted in porous, free draining media. There are many different types of dendrobiums available to the specialist grower. However, hybrids involving Dendrobiums Phalaenopsis are what you will most often encounter.

In general terms Denrobiums  orchid care need to live as follows:

Light
Sufficient light is important for healthy growth and flower production. Provide bright light, to 50 percent sun. In the home, an east, west or lightly shaded south window. In a greenhouse, about 30 to 50 percent of full sun. Under lights, four 40 watt fluorescent tubes and two 40 watt in candescent bulbs directly over plants. Plants should be naturally erect, with out need of (much) staking, and of a medium olive green color.

Temperature
Mature plants need a 15 to 20 F difference between night and day. Provide nights of 60 to 65 F; days of 80 to 90 F. Temperatures up to 95 to 100 F are beneficial if humidity and air circulation are increased. Low tempera-tures (below 50 F) may cause leaf drop.

Water
Keep evenly moist while in active growth. Allow to dry between waterings after growth is mature (indicated by terminal leaf).

Humidity
Dendrobiums need 50 to 60 percent. In the home, place on trays over moistened pebbles. In greenhouse, use a humidifier if conditions are too dry.

Fertilizer
Should be provided on a regular basis during the active growing period. The exact fertilizer you use will depend on the mix in which your plant is growing. A good general rule is to apply a balanced (10-10-10, 12-12-12, or similar ratio) fertilizer “weakly, weekly” during the period of active growth. That is, fertilize every week at one quarter to one half of the recommended dilution.

Potting
Should be done every two to three years before mix loses consistency (breaks down). Pot firmly in medium, giving aeration and ample drainage, allowing enough room for two years’ growth. Dendrobiums grow best in pots small for the size of the plant.

And this for Dendrobium Spesifications

Phalaenanthee
Ever green for several years, with thin, tall pseudobulbs, terminal inflorescences, usually appearing in the autumn or twice a year. Species such as Den. affine, Den. bigibum (phalaenopsis), Den. dicuphum and Den. williamsianum. Culture Grow warm year round, 60 F nights, water and fertilize heavily when roots appear from new growth, medium light, reduce water and fertilizer after growth finishes. If a short (three to four week), cooler (55 F) dry rest is given, and then plants are warmed again (60 F mininum), another growth may mature during winter and flower in the spring. Treat this growth as a summer growth cycle. These grow well with phalaenopsis, except for the rest period. Plants will go deciduous if grown too cool and dry.

Spatulata (Antelope Type)
Evergreen for several years. Most are large, vigorous plants with long lasting flowers in summer to several times a year. Species such as Den. antennatum, Den. canaliculatum, Den. discolor, Den. gouldii, Den. johannis, Den. lineale (veratrifolium), Den. stratiotes, Den. strebloceras and Den. taurinum. Culture Warm all year (60 to 65 F nights, 75 to 90 F days), no rest period, can be kept cooler in winter if dry, medium to high light.

Dendrobium
Most of the plants are pendulous, with leaves all along the canes that most often drop with on set of cooler, drier weather. One to five flowers per node are borne from the nodes of the leafless canes in mid winter through early spring.
Group 1
Species such as Den. chrysanthum, Den. friedricksianum, Den. nobile and Den. wardianum. Culture Growth period in summer, give warmth, water and fertilize heavily from when roots appear until top leaf appears on canes. Then give high light, little or no water, no fertilizer, cool nights (40 to 50 F). In other words, forget about them.
Group 2
Species such as Den. anosmum (super bum), Den. crassinode, Den. falconeri, Den. fimbriatum, Den. findlayanum, Den. heterocarpum (aureum), Den. loddigesii, Den. moniliforme, Den. parishii, Den. primulinus and Den. transparens. Culture Same as Group 1, but winter nights 55 F. Deciduous species need virtually no water in winter.

Callista
Most are pseudobulbous plants with pendent inflorescences. Species such as Den. aggregatum (now properly lindleyi), Den. chrysotoxum, Den. densiflorum, Den. farmeri and Den. thyrsi-florum. Culture Summer give warmth (60 to 90 F), medium light, medium quantities of water and fertilizer. Winter keep cool (50 F nights), medium light, just enough water to keep pseudobulbs from shriveling, no fertilizer.

Latouria
Leaves at top of pseudobulbs are large and leathery, inflorescence erect, flowers commonly yellow-green. Species such as Den. atroviolaceum, Den. macrophyllum and Den. spectabile. Culture Same as antelope types, but cool-er and drier when resting in winter.

Formosae (Nigrohirsutae Type)
Canelike pseudobulbs, with black hairs on leaf sheaths and pseudobulbs often appar-ent, leading to the popular name nigrohir-sutae. Flowers usually white, up to 4 inch-es across, two to three together from near the end of the pseudobulb. Long lasting. Species such as Den. bellatulum, Den. dearii, Den. draconis, Den. formosum, Den. infundibulum, Den. lowii, Den. lyonii, Den. margaritaceum, Den. sanderae and Den. schuetzii. Culture Intermediate to cool year round, 50 to 60 F nights, maximum 85 F days. Water and fertilize when growing; give a slight short rest (dry) when growth is completed. Keep barely moist until growth starts again.

Other Species
Among the popular types are Den. lingui-forme, Den. tetragonum, Den. gracillimum and Den. cuthbertsonii (sophronitis). Culture Depends on the plant’s native environment. It is generally safe to grow them intermediate to warm (55 to 60 F at night), drying them out in winter (or as growth stops). Hybrids between sections vary in culture.