Orchid Seedling Care

The genus Phalaenopsis boasts plants almost as beautiful as their flowers; they have smooth, shiny, large leaves, emanating from the central crown, and they lack pseudobulbs.

Called by the florists 'butterfly orchids,' in their home they are more nearly correctly known as 'moth orchids,' gleaming white and moth-like in the dark of night.

In recent years they have often replaced lilies of the valley for bridal bouquets because of the purity of their white spray-like flowers.

Heavy strap-like roots go forth searching for moisture and, owing to their habit of roving and clinging to foreign objects, constitute a considerable problem in repotting. Erect woody stems bear flowers prolifically until the weight causes them to curve gracefully.

The structure of the moth orchid is exquisite, the dorsal sepal rounded, shaping to a point at the top; the side petals broad and sweeping; the two lower sepals, narrower and sometimes overlapping, forming a background for the remarkable lip, crested with yellow.

Red lines in the throat seem to signal the way to the hybridizing insects, and the fore lobes of the lip are frequently elongated into curling tendrils. An intermediate house will serve though the moth orchid prefers warmer conditions.

Moth orchid care is delicate. When it comes to moth orchid care, they can be grown in pots or baskets. Oncidiums and Wanda coerulea thrive on rafts of bark or blocks of wood. Potting material may be tied firmly around the base of the plant and container with wire, allowing the air-loving roots to wander at will.

The moth orchid, while differing from Vanda in that it is stemless, is also of monopodial growth and not divisible. It will occasionally throw adventitious plants from the nodes of the flower stem.

Experiments have shown that it is possible, by wrapping the flower node in damp Osmunda and keeping it warm and damp, to force the growth of a new plant.

The moth orchid is also pseudobulb-less, and, if properly nourished, will bloom constantly and never rest. When the potting material is Osmunda, this tendency to excessive activity must be curbed or the plant will bloom itself to death.

Buds can be pinched off unless at least one pair of the firm, leathery leaves have been formed since the last flowering.

Old flower stems may break into bloom anew, which weakens the plant and should be discouraged by cutting stems close to the plant. The plant should be kept well watered, but the roots should not be allowed to become soggy from lack of air.

The moth orchid, although monopodial, is stemless, but yearly grows a pair of leaves from the characteristic crown. The leaves of monopodial orchids are heavy, leathery, fleshy, and capable of storing some quantity of moisture, but the plants must never be allowed to dry out completely.

When it comes to moth orchid care, the temperature should be kept at 68? making it suitable for the moth orchid.

Moth orchid care can give trouble to some growers. When potting, the plants should be well centered in the pot or basket. Medium should be well packed but not so firmly as for Cattleyas.

Compost should come well up around the base of the plant, since Phalaenopsis has a tendency to force the constantly forming crowns up from the medium. There should be very good drainage.

The moth orchids are heavy feeders and will usually exhaust the medium in two years, after which they should be repotted. This orchid has strap-like roots that wander out of the container and become fastened to it, the bench, or adjacent pots.

These roots must be severed in repotting, and the plant is inevitably set back. The intense interest in gravel culture, which is spectacularly successful with the moth orchid, is partly a result of this difficulty in repotting.

A few moth orchid care tips to help you.

Oncidium Orchid Care

The genus Oncidium is a very old one. It ranges from hot coastal regions to the cold of 12,000 feet elevation. It is native to Mexico, Central and tropical South America, and the West Indies.

It has short, thick pseudobulbs and slender, graceful leaves.

Though the flowers are small compared to the Cattleya, they are a spray-type of considerable grace and charm. The blooms are flat, of silky texture, resembling a dancing girl with wide-spread skirts and tiny waist.

The clear bright yellow attained by some of the species is unsurpassed. An intermediate or cool house will serve.

Oncidiums, are sun-worshiper’s and when it comes to oncidium orchid care, they must not be allowed to shrivel. They need a great deal of water when growth is being completed and flowering is beginning, but require less after flowering. The bulbs of Cym-bidiums should not be allowed to shrivel.

Standing pots on damp gravel on the floor seems to give them the warmth at the top and coolness below that they find congenial. They prefer water at the roots at all times, but the potting mixture should be well drained and not soggy.

When it comes to oncidium orchid care, they seem to thrive on rafts of bark or blocks of wood. Potting material may be tied firmly around the base of the plant and container with wire, allowing the air-loving roots to wander at will.

Oncidiums, like Dendrobiums, do well in confinement. Their containers, which may be baskets or rafts, should be just large enough and, as a rule, hung in the light. Osmunda is a satisfactory medium.

When Oncidiums are potted in a basket there should be a great deal of crock and not much compost. Sphagnum may be added to the medium. The genus requires a lot of water and consequently adequate drainage.

When it comes to oncidium orchid care, they need a long dry rest after a well-watered growing season. It lacks pseudobulbs, but the heavy, leathery leaves are capable of storing food and water for the dormant period.

There are exceptions to this rule among the family: O. candidum, O. crispum, O. flexuosum, and O. micranthum require little or no rest and should be kept moist at all times; O. Lanceanum must be removed to a cooler spot and dried out, although not completely, for a short time during the winter.

All the other Oncidiums enjoy a scarcity of water during the rest period, with only enough moisture to keep the bulbs from shriveling.

A few oncidium orchid care tips to help you.

Vanda Orchid Care

Welcome to ...Vanda orchid care.

The genus Vanda contains many species represented by large handsome plants and a wide variety of beauty in the flowers.

By some growers considered difficult to cultivate, their charm is well worth the supplying of their particular needs and the studying of their habits.

The plants are pseudobulb-less, the leaves distichous (dis-tik-ous), or disposed in two parallel lines along the heavy, erect stem.

The tendency of the stem is to grow up toward the sun, as the surprised amateur finds when his plant reaches the roof and has no more room to grow. The lower leaves frequently drop off.


Thick aerial roots form along the stem and, when smooth, green-tipped, and fat, indicate that the plant is progressing. When they become shriveled and ringed, something is drastically wrong with their culture and vanda orchid care.

In the showier species the flowers are borne in loose racemes and have spreading sepals and petals; in others the petals are spread and tend to roll under. In the former type the texture of the flowers is papery but shines as though sprinkled with diamond dust.

In the latter the texture is leathery or waxy and very heavy. The lip is often very inconspicuous.

Plants of monopodial growth, like the Vanda, with the new growth appearing continuously from the top or crown, will not divide so readily. The only method of propagation for them, other than seed growing, is to cut off the top of the plant below several of the husky aerial roots.

On being potted, the top part may take root and become a new plant. It is a risky practice, however, and is not especially recommended to amateurs unless for some reason the crown of the plant has become damaged and appears dead.

When the top is cut off or injured in this fashion the bottom part will probably develop adventitious plants.

This type of plant is a slow grower and needs to be very large before flowering, so that any kind of propagation is a slow and tedious process at best.

The monopodial, including the Vanda, grow continuously from a central crown, which eventually appears atop a long stem that has frequently lost its lower leaves. Phalaenopsis, although monopodial, is stemless, but yearly grows a pair of leaves from the characteristic crown.

The leaves of monopodial orchids are heavy, leathery, fleshy, and capable of storing some quantity of moisture, but the plants must never be allowed to dry out completely. The leaves of Vanda teres, like pine needles, do not resemble leaves, but are three to four inches long, very slender, round and succulent, and taper to a point.

When it comes to vanda orchid care, they are considered sun worshipper. Among the sun-worshipers are the Vandas, natives of India, the Philippines, and some Pacific islands.

They will not thrive without adequate sun, and they must have corresponding amounts of heat and water. Care must be exercised to keep water from remaining in the growing crown.

few vanda orchid care tips to help you.

Phalaenopsis Orchid Care

Welcome to ...Phalaenopsis orchid care.

The genus Phalaenopsis boasts plants almost as beautiful as their flowers; they have smooth, shiny, large leaves, emanating from the central crown, and they lack pseudobulbs.

Called by the florists 'butterfly orchids,' in their home they are more nearly correctly known as 'moth orchids,' gleaming white and moth-like in the dark of night.

In recent years they have often replaced lilies of the valley for bridal bouquets because of the purity of their white spray-like flowers.


Heavy strap-like roots go forth searching for moisture and, owing to their habit of roving and clinging to foreign objects, constitute a considerable problem in repotting. Erect woody stems bear flowers prolifically until the weight causes them to curve gracefully.

The structure of the flowers is exquisite, the dorsal sepal rounded, shaping to a point at the top; the side petals broad and sweeping; the two lower sepals, narrower and sometimes overlapping, forming a background for the remarkable lip, crested with yellow.

Red lines in the throat seem to signal the way to the hybridizing insects, and the fore lobes of the lip are frequently elongated into curling tendrils. An intermediate house will serve though they prefer warmer conditions.

Phalaenopsis, the lovely white 'bride's orchids' from the Philippines and the Eastern Archipelago, respond well to sun, but must not be overexposed. A warm, moist atmosphere, with plenty of air, is best for this species.

Phalaenopsis orchid care is delicate. They can be grown in pots or baskets. Oncidiums and Wanda coerulea thrive on rafts of bark or blocks of wood. Potting material may be tied firmly around the base of the plant and container with wire, allowing the air-loving roots to wander at will.

Phalaenopsis, while differing from Vanda in that it is stemless, is also of monopodial growth and not divisible. It will occasionally throw adventitious plants from the nodes of the flower stem.

Experiments have shown that it is possible, by wrapping the flower node in damp Osmunda and keeping it warm and damp, to force the growth of a new plant.

Phalaenopsis is also pseudobulb-less, and, if properly nourished, will bloom constantly and never rest. When the potting material is Osmunda, this tendency to excessive activity must be curbed or the plant will bloom itself to death. Buds can be pinched off unless at least one pair of the firm, leathery leaves have been formed since the last flowering.

Old flower stems may break into bloom anew, which weakens the plant and should be discouraged by cutting stems close to the plant. The plant should be kept well watered, but the roots should not be allowed to become soggy from lack of air.

Phalaenopsis, although monopodial, is stemless, but yearly grows a pair of leaves from the characteristic crown. The leaves of monopodial orchids are heavy, leathery, fleshy, and capable of storing some quantity of moisture, but the plants must never be allowed to dry out completely.

The temperature should be kept at 68? making it suitable for Phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis orchid care can give trouble to some growers. When potting, the plants should be well centered in the pot or basket. Medium should be well packed but not so firmly as for Cattleyas.

Compost should come well up around the base of the plant, since Phalaenopsis has a tendency to force the constantly forming crowns up from the medium. There should be very good drainage.

Phalaenopsis are heavy feeders and will usually exhaust the medium in two years, after which they should be repotted. This orchid has strap-like roots that wander out of the container and become fastened to it, the bench, or adjacent pots.

These roots must be severed in repotting, and the plant is inevitably set back. The intense interest in gravel culture, which is spectacularly successful with Phalaenopsis, is partly a result of this difficulty in repotting

A few phalaenopsis orchid care tips to help you.

Cymbidium Orchid Care

Cymbidium

A book might well be devoted solely to cymbidiums and cymbidium orchid care. There is a lot to learn about this beautiful species.

The genus cymbidium is a hardy one reaching an ever greater and well-deserved popularity. Plants are sympodial, terrestrial, semiterrestrial, and epiphytic. They are grown outdoors under lath in the tropics and thrive particularly on the West Coast of North America, where Southern California hopes to become the Cymbidium center of the world.

The plants have great solid pseudobulbs and very long grass-like leaves. From the depths of this graceful foliage (waist high), the flowers climb along tall, sturdy stems, usually erect, but drooping in some species.

This handsome spray orchid has lent itself so well to hybridizing that it has attained a perfection in flower, of size and shape that rivals the Cattleya, and in range of color it is surpassed by no other orchid.

Cymbidium orchid care take patience and practice. Species of cymbidium have proved strangely difficult to grow under artificial conditions, probably owing to the difficulty of giving them proper aeration.

For that reason as well as for their superior beauty and size, the hybrids are far better known than the species. They must be grown in a cool house or outdoors.

This cymbidium orchid care tip is very important. Only experience will give the grower an understanding of the kind of aeration that is best for his particular collection in his particular circumstances.

It is surprising how quickly, with conscientious observation, the grower comes to recognize the needs of her plants.

Remember this cymbidium orchid care tip, because cymbidiums are native to the Himalayas, they require controlled sun and cool conditions with abundant air for optimal growing conditions.

Now, when it comes to cymbidium orchid care, every grower has his favourite mix of compost and these splendid plants do gratifyingly well in all mixes. They are terrestrials and so do well in straight soil, although they seem to do best on a rich, well-drained medium.

Old, clean Osmunda, collected when un-potting cattleyas and other species, is excellent for this purpose. A formula highly recommended by a successful grower is three parts of leaf mold (oak and sycamore), one part disintegrated granite, one-half part fibrous peat, and one-half part turf and sand.

One grower's wife has been heard to complain that her husband tears up the front lawn to get potting material for his cymbidiums.

When it comes to cymbidium orchid care, the use of fertilizer is a controversial matter, but it is probably good for these heavy feeders. Addition of leaf mold is always recommended.

Cymbidiums need moisture at the roots at all times and correspondingly good drainage. Since these plants grow enormous bulbs, a large pot is necessary.

The time for repotting is late spring when new growths are just beginning. Backbulbs may be removed without disturbing the plant and they will start new plants from the dormant eyes.

When potted the backbulbs should be centered in the pot since there is no way of predicting the direction in which the eye will break. They should be potted firmly, although not so tightly as Cattleyas, and they may be held fast with a stake.

A few cymbidium orchid care tips to help you.

Cattleya Orchid Care

Cattleya

The cattleya, favored by the florist and valuable as the parent of large and showy hybrids, is perhaps the orchid best known to the public.

There are over forty species of Cattleya. In their native state the plants grow in thick clusters on trees frequently mahogany or a type of acacia and are so well protected by giant stinging ants that the only way to harvest them is to cut down the tree.

The Cattleya plant lacks beauty to the uninitiated, being composed of longish, rounded pseudobulbs, which advance rhizome-fashion along the surface of the potting mixture, and are topped by one, two, or three long green leaves of firm leathery texture.

The average Cattleya 'puts on' or grows one new pseudobulb a year. After several new bulbs have been formed the old ones tend to lose their leaves and roots, becoming backbulbs.

These back-bulbs are frequently referred to as poor relations, owing to their habit of sapping the energy of the growing end of the plant. If severed and placed in a warm, moist spot they will usually respond by sending forth new growth and roots to start a new plant.

A tiny swelling or dormant eye will be found at the base of each pseudobulb in a Cattleya plant. In proper time the eye of the youngest bulb begins to swell and break into growth, acquiring new leaves and sending out new roots.

A new pseudobulb is formed and, in a healthy, well-cared-for plant, each will be finer and larger than the last. In case of injury to the forebulb, one of the dormant eyes of an older bulb will break.

From among the leaves at the top of the new growth the flower sheath will form. Very disconcerting to the beginner is the habit of some species of growing or 'throwing' sheaths at the time the new growth is made up.

This means that after the new bulb is completed there is a long period during which the flower sheath remains empty of buds, and the amateur despairs of ever having a flower.

Some Cattleyas even have double sheaths, which also disappoint the eager grower. Finally, after repeatedly holding the plant against the light in search of buds, he is rewarded by discovering small dark spots at the base of the sheath.

At last the flower buds are 'set' or have begun to ripen. Species differ in the length of time required for maturing or flowering.

The Cattleya is among the larger and showier of the species orchids species meaning 'native' as opposed to 'hybrid.' Coloring ranges through all shades and tints of purple, from amethyst and violet to magenta and deep red.

Brown, yellow, and green species are found among the genus. Many of the species have alba varieties, whose flowers are pure white with a touch of green or yellow at the throat.

Important among the Cattleyas are the labiata group, those possessed of a fine, large lip, which makes them valuable as the progenitors of commercially desirable hybrids as well as for their own beauty and prodigality.

These labiates have some representative blooming, with trustworthy regularity, at every season of the year. The intermediate or 'Cattleya' house satisfactorily serves this group.

The Cattleya permits division as long as three or four bulbs are allowed. Each year in the life of the Cattleya adds a new growth at the front end of the plant, and certain species may occasionally grow in two and, more rarely, in three directions. As the new bulbs form, the old ones frequently begin to lose their leaves and roots.

They become 'poor relations,' a drag on the living plant. On being severed from the living plant the backbulbs, as these old drybulbs are called, will, if placed in a warm, moist spot, start life over. After two, three, or perhaps four years these will be new plants and will flower.

The advantage of the backbulb type of propagation over the growing of seedlings is that the flower will exactly resemble that of the original plant, while in the seedling there is no way to tell whether it will resemble one parent plant or the other or be something entirely different.

When it comes to cattleya orchid care, this one requires direct sun. Cattleyas, native to Central and South America, are found hanging on trees in the tropical rain forests. The burning sun of midday is usually kept off the plant by foliage directly overhead.

The grower, guided by this knowledge, lets Cattleyas be exposed to the sun, but provides shade in summer during the warmest part of the day, for sunburn must be avoided.

The increased exposure to sun necessitates a corresponding increase in humidity to prevent the pseudobulbs from shriveling.

When watering Cattleyas, it is well to soak the pot thoroughly and then allow the potting material almost but not entirely to dry out.

The pots should not become completely dry since the bulbs may shrivel and plant growth may be retarded for at least a year. Yet, if there is any doubt, it is far better to err on the dry side.

When it comes to cattleya orchid care, dryness will deter growth, but too much moisture will kill the plant. If water remains in the pot and does not dry out in a week or ten days, it is likely that the roots will have rotted off.

The pseudobulbs will shrivel and the leaves droop. Many amateurs mistake this for an indication of dryness, and treat the pot to another drubbing, thus rotting the remaining roots and probably killing the plant.

A plant that shows signs of shriveling from lack of roots will often respond to a daily gentle overhead spray. Laelias and other plants with light, heat, and air requirements similar to the Cattleyas need about the same watering treatment.

Laelias like slightly more water after complete growth and before flowering. After flowering they will require slightly less.

Dendrobium Orchid Care

Dendrobium

Dendrobiums Orchid are among the most commonly encountered orchids in the retail trade. Like most other cultivated orchids, dendrobiums are epiphytes, or air plants. They have well developed water storage organs (pseudobulbs), often called “canes” for their upright, leafy appearance. They should be potted in porous, free draining media. There are many different types of dendrobiums available to the specialist grower. However, hybrids involving Dendrobiums Phalaenopsis are what you will most often encounter.

In general terms Denrobiums  orchid care need to live as follows:

Light
Sufficient light is important for healthy growth and flower production. Provide bright light, to 50 percent sun. In the home, an east, west or lightly shaded south window. In a greenhouse, about 30 to 50 percent of full sun. Under lights, four 40 watt fluorescent tubes and two 40 watt in candescent bulbs directly over plants. Plants should be naturally erect, with out need of (much) staking, and of a medium olive green color.

Temperature
Mature plants need a 15 to 20 F difference between night and day. Provide nights of 60 to 65 F; days of 80 to 90 F. Temperatures up to 95 to 100 F are beneficial if humidity and air circulation are increased. Low tempera-tures (below 50 F) may cause leaf drop.

Water
Keep evenly moist while in active growth. Allow to dry between waterings after growth is mature (indicated by terminal leaf).

Humidity
Dendrobiums need 50 to 60 percent. In the home, place on trays over moistened pebbles. In greenhouse, use a humidifier if conditions are too dry.

Fertilizer
Should be provided on a regular basis during the active growing period. The exact fertilizer you use will depend on the mix in which your plant is growing. A good general rule is to apply a balanced (10-10-10, 12-12-12, or similar ratio) fertilizer “weakly, weekly” during the period of active growth. That is, fertilize every week at one quarter to one half of the recommended dilution.

Potting
Should be done every two to three years before mix loses consistency (breaks down). Pot firmly in medium, giving aeration and ample drainage, allowing enough room for two years’ growth. Dendrobiums grow best in pots small for the size of the plant.

And this for Dendrobium Spesifications

Phalaenanthee
Ever green for several years, with thin, tall pseudobulbs, terminal inflorescences, usually appearing in the autumn or twice a year. Species such as Den. affine, Den. bigibum (phalaenopsis), Den. dicuphum and Den. williamsianum. Culture Grow warm year round, 60 F nights, water and fertilize heavily when roots appear from new growth, medium light, reduce water and fertilizer after growth finishes. If a short (three to four week), cooler (55 F) dry rest is given, and then plants are warmed again (60 F mininum), another growth may mature during winter and flower in the spring. Treat this growth as a summer growth cycle. These grow well with phalaenopsis, except for the rest period. Plants will go deciduous if grown too cool and dry.

Spatulata (Antelope Type)
Evergreen for several years. Most are large, vigorous plants with long lasting flowers in summer to several times a year. Species such as Den. antennatum, Den. canaliculatum, Den. discolor, Den. gouldii, Den. johannis, Den. lineale (veratrifolium), Den. stratiotes, Den. strebloceras and Den. taurinum. Culture Warm all year (60 to 65 F nights, 75 to 90 F days), no rest period, can be kept cooler in winter if dry, medium to high light.

Dendrobium
Most of the plants are pendulous, with leaves all along the canes that most often drop with on set of cooler, drier weather. One to five flowers per node are borne from the nodes of the leafless canes in mid winter through early spring.
Group 1
Species such as Den. chrysanthum, Den. friedricksianum, Den. nobile and Den. wardianum. Culture Growth period in summer, give warmth, water and fertilize heavily from when roots appear until top leaf appears on canes. Then give high light, little or no water, no fertilizer, cool nights (40 to 50 F). In other words, forget about them.
Group 2
Species such as Den. anosmum (super bum), Den. crassinode, Den. falconeri, Den. fimbriatum, Den. findlayanum, Den. heterocarpum (aureum), Den. loddigesii, Den. moniliforme, Den. parishii, Den. primulinus and Den. transparens. Culture Same as Group 1, but winter nights 55 F. Deciduous species need virtually no water in winter.

Callista
Most are pseudobulbous plants with pendent inflorescences. Species such as Den. aggregatum (now properly lindleyi), Den. chrysotoxum, Den. densiflorum, Den. farmeri and Den. thyrsi-florum. Culture Summer give warmth (60 to 90 F), medium light, medium quantities of water and fertilizer. Winter keep cool (50 F nights), medium light, just enough water to keep pseudobulbs from shriveling, no fertilizer.

Latouria
Leaves at top of pseudobulbs are large and leathery, inflorescence erect, flowers commonly yellow-green. Species such as Den. atroviolaceum, Den. macrophyllum and Den. spectabile. Culture Same as antelope types, but cool-er and drier when resting in winter.

Formosae (Nigrohirsutae Type)
Canelike pseudobulbs, with black hairs on leaf sheaths and pseudobulbs often appar-ent, leading to the popular name nigrohir-sutae. Flowers usually white, up to 4 inch-es across, two to three together from near the end of the pseudobulb. Long lasting. Species such as Den. bellatulum, Den. dearii, Den. draconis, Den. formosum, Den. infundibulum, Den. lowii, Den. lyonii, Den. margaritaceum, Den. sanderae and Den. schuetzii. Culture Intermediate to cool year round, 50 to 60 F nights, maximum 85 F days. Water and fertilize when growing; give a slight short rest (dry) when growth is completed. Keep barely moist until growth starts again.

Other Species
Among the popular types are Den. lingui-forme, Den. tetragonum, Den. gracillimum and Den. cuthbertsonii (sophronitis). Culture Depends on the plant’s native environment. It is generally safe to grow them intermediate to warm (55 to 60 F at night), drying them out in winter (or as growth stops). Hybrids between sections vary in culture.